Setting up the pond the right way

All about the ideal pond bottom, which aquatic plants and how to best plant pond plants

Pond planting and decoratingPond planting plan
pond substrate for the pondPond substrate
Van der Velde Aquatic Plants organic pondWhat aquatic plants in the pond
What oxygen plants in the pond?Which oxygen plants in the pond
/waterlilies-for-the-pond-dwarf-waterlily-Nymphaea-Pygmaea-HelvolaWhich water lily in the pond
marsh plants-pond-yellow-lis-Iris-PseudacorisWhich marsh plants in the pond
pond bacteriaPond Bacteria
pond plants-plantsPlanting pond plants
plant filter-marsh filter-helophyte filterPlant filter pond

- 5 tips from Simon for pond decorating -

1. Don't fill the entire pond with water


Unfortunately, a common mistake: the pond is already filled with water while the pond plants have yet to be placed. This makes it difficult or even impossible to place all the plants in a good, sturdy spot. Simon therefore recommends starting first with a thin layer of pond substrate in an empty pond, after which you only allow a small layer of water into the pond. You can now step through the pond with boots on to place the aquatic plants in place in the substrate. Then top up with substrate. Is everything set and firm? Only then fill the entire pond with water.

2. Use pond substrate


Always provide an 8-inch layer of pond substrate in your pond. The porous granules are an ideal place for bacteria to take up residence and you need them to keep the pond water beautifully clear. In addition, with a layer of substrate, you can give the pond plants a stable base to establish themselves - with or without a pond basket - on the pond floor. This also gives oxygenated plants a chance to continue growing outside the basket in the substrate. And the granules are also very handy for camouflaging the pond baskets so that you don't have to look at the black trays. Count on a maximum of 2 bags of 20 liters per 1 m2.

3. Work from the inside out


When setting up the pond, pay attention for a moment when the pond plants are put down. The substrate is there, now it's the plants' turn. If you have a somewhat larger pond, it is smart to work from the inside out. So you start in the lowest area and work step-by-step towards the outside. You end in the shallowest zone (swamp zone). When placing the aquatic plants, also pay attention to what depth is best for optimal growth. This is indicated on the packaging of our pond plants. Do you like a lot of plants? Then place the baskets or crates against each other.

4. Place plenty of (floating) oxygen plants


Anyone who builds a pond is not waiting for a pond full of algae. The best remedy is to place many oxygen plants immediately upon construction, both perennial and floating. To do this, keep ten loose oxygen plants per m3 or count with a maximum of four oxygen plants in baskets (19x19x10 cm) or 1 crate (60x40x20cm). Early in the season, the top layer of the water will warm up quickly. The oxygen plants growing on the bottom are located in the colder part of the pond. These therefore grow too slowly to block the sun. Only when the oxygen plants have gained volume can they block the sun and prevent the water from heating up too much and algae growth from occurring. This is why it is important to also add floating oxygen plants when you build a pond. You add these plants when the pond is half filled with water. You simply throw the floating oxygen plants into the water. Choose at least 5 floating plants perm3.

5. Don't forget the pond bacteria


There is pond substrate, many pond plants, and the pond is filled with water. Ready? Almost, only one more thing needs to be done. To get the pond started, add pond bacteria to the water. These miniature organisms like to attach themselves to pond substrate and between the roots of pond plants, and help get and keep the water in the pond clear. They work together with the aquatic plants in your pond to prevent algae growth. For a small pond use 2 Clear-Zyme cubes per m3 (1000 liters) of water in blister packs. If you have a larger pond in the garden, Simon recommends the self-developed Bacta Clear. One liter bottle is good for ponds up to 20,000 liters of water.

In the pond, you need four groups of aquatic plants that bring the water into biological balance

Van der Velde Water Plants range of oxygen plantsOXYGEN PLANTS >
Van der Velde Aquatic plants marsh plantsMARSH PLANTS >
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What do you need to set up your pond

Choose native aquatic plants appropriate to the size of the pond and provide adequate variation in height and structure. Plants provide oxygen and filter the water. Also place plants at different depths in the pond to mimic the different habitats of fish and other animals. Add some rocks and wood to the pond. This will provide hiding places and shade for the fish and other animals in the pond. Fill the pond with clean water. Then let the water stand for a few days before adding fish or other animals to allow the water to stabilize.

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All about pond decorating

Tips on how you can enjoy a clear pond all year long

Frequently asked questions about pond decorating

Setting up a pond is a fun job. We recommend working in steps, starting at the bottom. Is the pond liner laid or the pre-formed pond in place? Then follow these steps:

  1. Add 4 cm of pond substrate, stone pellets to which bacteria attach.
  2. Run a small layer of water into the pond.
  3. Plant oxygen plants, water lilies, marsh plants and aquatic plants. Each plant has its own desired zone or depth at which it will reach optimal growth and bloom; pay attention to this when planting. Our packaging indicates the correct depth for pond plants.
  4. Top up the substrate to about 8 inches and check that you have properly secured the baskets of aquatic plants in them.
  5. Only now fill the pond with water to the desired level.
  6. Finally, add a dose of pond bacteria to get your pond into good balance quickly. You can also leave floating plants in the pond now.

You can read more tips in Simon's pond planting plan.

A pond that manages to keep itself in biological balance does not lack all the necessary plant groups.

  • Oxygen plants: the main plant group that absorbsCO2 from the water and releases oxygen to the water. They grow below the water surface.
  • Water lilies: they are not only a beautiful addition to your pond, but also very useful. Animals use water lilies for shelter, and the large bulrushes trap heat from the sun to keep the water cooler. This counteracts algae growth.
  • Marsh plants: the shallower marsh zone contains plants that like wet feet. The strong roots of these plants contribute significantly to the pond by filtering the water.
  • Aquatic plants: these are also water purifiers that should not be missing in the pond. With their root systems they clear the water of waste products.
  • Floating plants: this addition of plants helps you keep out sun and algae, and in the process they fulfill a nice ornamental value of your pond.

A natural pond is large and contains no pond liner. Do you have or want a pond in the garden that stays healthy naturally? Then you are talking about an organic plant pond. Plants that fit well are pikeweed and yellow lis in the shallower areas, and underwater you best place a good amount of oxygen plants such as crabweed, waterweed or hornwort. These help maintain oxygen levels in the water. A beautiful water lily is also an asset to your plant pond. Read more about an organic plant pond.

If you want to keep fish in the pond, the deepest point should be at least -80 cm. Deeper is always allowed. At this depth the fish can hibernate in peace and descend to the bottom for cooler water in the hot summer months. Read all about keeping fish in the pond.

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